Relais Louis XIII - Paris

My husband surprised me to invite me to this big table ... the best table of my experience. The ravioli, the duck and the thousand leaf are the great specialties of the house - and the reputation is absolutely not usurped! the atmosphere is refined and felty. an unforgettable experience.

We had last been to Relais Luis XIII in 1994 by accident after Jacques Cagna was overbooked. Back then, RLX3 was a somewhat stuffy classical French meal with 3 set menus ranging from approx 150 francs - 200 francs for about 7 courses which was a pretty good bargain. Meals had amuse bouces and spiked sorbets, cheese courses and porto. Filling and solid, if predictable. Today, RLX3 is better -- so much better -- an unbelievably good deal.The restaurant has lightened up and shed much of its stuffiness - following the trends in NYC and other fine dining centers, dress is business casual and there is some whimsical art of the wall (a red crocodile head stands out). We were three for a teen's birthday dinner and the restaurant treated us like royalty. Staffing is approx 3 diners to 1 staff. When you arrive, one person will check your res quietly in the foyer and then another will take you back to your table. We were in a somewhat private 3 table side room; the front appeared to be filled with many asian tourists and some French. Our room had French locals, ourselves and an American couple.There are three options for dinner: a la carte (just don't -- you miss the experience and spend more) a "white menu" and a "signature menu." Each are 95 Euro tax and service included. The signature is a 5 course tasting selected entirely by the chef. Night we went, it included an appetizer, a fish course, chicken course, one piece of cheese, and an "deconstructed" tarte tatin. Looked good, but portions were dainty and the lack of choice was off-putting. We wanted to choose the specialties of the house, none of which were on the signature menu. So we chose the "white menu" (hoping I have the names correct!) which allowed us to pick one each from entree (app), plat (main) and dessert. We each chose differently and the selection was wonderful! We had one server, a sommelier, and two stewards, and there was another woman who checked on the room every few minutes -- service was high Mich quality. Meal started with choux pastry warm cheese puffs (2 each) and an amuse bouche of cold gazpacho with beef gelatine -- refreshing and subtle. Shared 3 apps: (1) ravioli filled with lobster and foie gras (pretty, good, but not stunning), (2) langoustine with chanterelle mushrooms and crunchy bits of something wonderful in a cream sauce (unbelieveable good -- so good, out teen guest stole half!), and (3) the finest white fish quenelle I have ever tasted (basically a long roundish white fish souffle ball mixed with cream and cheese floating in same -- amazeballs!Shared 3 Mains: (1) seabass with chanterelles (good, light); sweetbreads in cream and chanterelle sauce (they love those shrooms! This was really nice, if heavy, and could have used a bit more crisp) and (3) duck two ways -- first a magret breast lightly seared with sauce, and then a second plate after with a small tart filled with duck and foie gras (too much, too late and so decadent!)We all had same dessert: Amazing house specialty mille feuille (napolean) swimming in a pool of vanilla custard. SO SO GOOD.Wine prices were fair (20Eu for Champagne glass, 12 for St. Emilion, 13 for Loire red, $14 for vintage port).Meal finished with a nice plate of pastries and coffee. All in with an addition 40 Euro tip (not required) for the staff (and there was some confusion about whether tip was included, and I finally ascertained that it was) total was about 450 euro, or $480 all in for 3. I categorically shout that this is a bargain by any standards. We are from NYC and would not blink at $150 per person for a full meal at a non-starred resto. This was the full on Mich star (recently dropped from ** to *, oh well!) experience and truly masterful dishes from an actual MOF.Don't hesitate. This is the best bargain in Paris!

We went quite often to this restaurant to say that this time it was not what we expected. the paste that contained the famous ravioli had a taste of "not cooked"; duck served in two services apart, portions were very chic. the wine needed a long stay in the ice bucket to reach the right service temperature. Anyway, I was very disappointed and my husband too. I'm not sure we're back.

My husband and I were fortunate enough to happen upon this restaurant, and we're so grateful we did. We walked in without reservations and told them I was a vegetarian. Not only did they seat us immediately, but they created a special dish just for me. It's not an exaggeration to say that the food and wine were a sumptuous gift. Even from the start of the meal, the bread alone was truly the best we've ever had. The wine recommendations were thoughtful, the atmosphere was lovely, romantic, and comfortable, and the service was excellent. If you're in the mood for a beautiful experience over fine dining, don't miss this restaurant!

Fireplace, very attentive staff, excellent cuisine. A big moment. The lobster and the thousand leaves are absolutely fabulous