Colebrooke's - Central Dr, Hornchurch

Islington’s smallest restaurant, Tony Moroni’s in Colebrooke Row, where Tony’s mamma served traditional Italian nosh for more than a quarter of a century is no more. In fact one could have lived in Islington for 25 years and never known in existed. 69 Colebrooke Row – just off Essex Road near Islington Green – is now home to Colebrooke's, Islington’s smallest wine bar. There’s seating for nearly 40, with a few pavement tables protected from the elements by an awning giving a cozy, intimate and local feel. Not that newcomers are made to feel unwelcome. Bar manager, Felix (female) is charm personified and the owners, Ross and Jake who haven’t given up their day jobs, are regulars. Though it only opened at the end of August, it was already become a lunchtime haunt a number of local celebs, ladies who lunch and media types on modest expenses. Colebrooke’s is more of a wine bar than a restaurant. The food, though excellent and the menu designed by La Fromagerie (recent winner of The Observer’s Food Monthly’s Readers’ Award for best deli), confines itself to some wonderful pates, cheeses, chacuteries, and nibbles. The home made chutney is worth the No. 73 bus fare on its own. The pudding selection offers sumptuous iced desserts include an amaretto parfait, Belgian chocolate praline skewers for between £3.95 and £4.25, which can be enjoyed with a liqueur, champagne or a glass of Botrytis Semillion dessert wine. Light bites of classic gourmet cheeses, pâtés, fish balls, and fresh cuts of quality European cold meats are also available individually with a choice of breads or crackers for between £3.75 and £5.95. Classic cocktails – not the ‘long comfortable blow job up against a white Russian’ variety – are mixed to order from £5 and Colebrooke’s features a ‘Martini of the Month’ for £5.50. The wine list is relatively short, though well thought out, with the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio for £14.25 a bottle leading up to a rather splendid Lebanese Cabernet Sauvignon for £23.45. There are some mighty fine Bordeaux courtesy of Otterden Vintners, notably from Baron Velge’s de Come and de Clauzet chateaux in St-Estephe, Medoc which are produced in quantities too small to interest the larger wine merchants. An interesting selection of bottled beers sells from £3 plus there’s also ‘refreshingly expensive’ Stella on tap. Open 7 days a week and from noon to midnight most days, Colebrooke’s hopes to extend its opening hours shortly.